1958-08-31-sr-p72-monuments-mark-the-high-spots-of-regions-history
August 31, 1958 Spokesman-Review Page 72:
Granite Milestones Into Inland Empire's Past
Monuments Mark the High Spots of Region's History
--By Fleda M. Peterson
HISTORICAL monuments dotting the Inland Empire are bookmarks among the pages of history written by the deeds of stouthearted men who more than 100 years ago scattered the spores of our civilization.
The journey of Governor Isaac Stevens can be stepped by monuments from Cataldo to Colville. The campaign of Col. George Wright, to subdue the Indians, can be checked from Bassett’s Springs to Hangman creek. Capt. John “Muilan’s military road is marked by many monuments from Walla Walla across northern Idaho, to Fort Benton, Mont.
Here is the story of many of these monuments, and the ceremonies of dedication held at them.
STEVENS MARKERS
Cataldo Mission
ON ENTERING Washington territory, Governor Stevens stopped for three days at the Sacred Heart mission, now known as Cataldo mission.
It was built in 1846 and ministered to Indians and white settlers until 1877.
In 1925 the Knights of Columbus of northern Idaho and eastern Washington attempted its restoration. The first journey to Cataldo after the beginning of its restoration was in 1926. By that time as many as 2000 people, Indians and white men, including Catholics and Protestants, had made three pilgrimages.
On September 12, 1930, to honor its complete restoration, a pilgrimage covering 68 miles traveled from Spokane, through Spokane Valley, around Coeur d'Alene lake, up a hill to the mission where, aided by an Indian chorus, a high mass was celebrated.
Fort Sherman
ON LEAVING Cataldo Governor Stevens stopped at the head village of the Coeur d'Alene Indians. This place is marked by a huge rock of native granite in Coeur d'Alene park.
The monument was erected under the direction of the fort Sherman commission. Mrs. M. B. Nash was its chairman. It was dedicated November 11, 1934.
Dr. John T. Wood presided and formally accepted the monument for the people of Coeur d'Alene.
Plante’s Ferry
FROM the Indian village of Coeur d'Alene, the governor and his party moved to Antoine Plante’s ford. That spot now called Plante’s Ferry is marked by a beautiful 20-foot granite obelisk. It is one of three outstanding of all the 26 monuments in this series.
The monument stands in a scenic setting on the bank of the Spokane “river at Irvin street, seven miles from the center of Spokane.
It may be that the sylvan beauty of the spot as well as the convenience for a river crossing appealed to Antoine Plante, the Indian-French Voyageur, who here established a home in 1849 and a ferry in 1851.
Pioneers who selected the spot and erected the monument were Samuel Glasgow, representing the Eastern Washington Historical society; S. K. Woodward from the Spokane Pioneer society, and T. T. Grant of the Valley Kiwanis club.
Grant Hunt presided at the dedication on June 12 1939.
Spokane House
IN RIVERSIDE state park, about nine miles northwest of Spokane, stands the largest and most beautiful monument to mark a spot in the state of Washington.
The monument marks the location of old Spokane House, the first permanent commercial center in the state. It was erected by the Spokane Pioneer society, on land given to the society by the county of Spokane. The state park and recreation commission donated $1000 matching the amount raised by the society. The nine-ton stone is one of the largest ever quarried in this part of the state. It was drilled in one piece from a 35-foot ledge.
The finished monument is 14 feet wide, six feet tall and 18 inches thick. A tableau at the top of its face depicts the meeting of the whites and Indians, done in a permanent coloring process called flurachrome. The historical legend beneath the picture was sandblasted on the stone. The monument was dedicated October 13, 1949. Attorney Lloyd Gandy, a pioneer of Spokane, made the address of the day.
One hundred years ago, Spokane House, like Cataldo and Plante’s Ferry, as well as Fort Colville, was one of the stopping places for all travelers. It was here Governor Stevens met Spokane Garry, a noted Indian, who brought him news of a gathering of important men at Fort Colville. The governor left at once for a site we know as Camp Washington.
From Spokane House one crosses the bridge at Nine Mile going west to the Coulee-Hite road. Follow the road west to the Camp Washington monument.
Camp Washington
GOVERNOR Stevens knew by Spekane Garry’s message that Capt. Geerge B. McClellan, whom he had dispatched from St. Paul to reach the west coast via the Isthmus of Panama, had arrived. He called his scouts to a place designated before leaving St. Paul, a desirable camp site with grass and water about nine miles from Spokane House. Placing - Colonel Donnelson in charge of the newly organized camp, and with an Indian guide, Stevens rode horseback to Fort Colville to meet Captain McClellan. After two days at the Fort, the two officers returned to the camp site on October 28.
While resting with his party of assembled explorers, the Governor transacted the first business as governor of the territory, thus fixing to the site the designation of "first capital" of Washington, since known as Camp Washington.
The weathered granite monument marking the site of Camp Washington has a history of its own. It was first erected on a plot of ground nine feet square, purchased by Four Mound Grange and given to the Washington State Historical society. It bears the earliest date of erection of any monument in this compilation.
The dedication was held in Four Mound Grange hall in October, 1908.
The first location of the monument was six miles from the authentic camp site, which was protested by pioneers. Otto Woolweber, of Crescent, was persistent in locating the true site of the camp on the Colville-Walla Walla trail.
Twenty years after the dedication, through the efforts of D. W. Vincent, president of the Old National bank and curator of the Washington State Historical society, the six-ton stone monument was moved to its present location.
Leaving Camp Washington, the governor’s party left for Fort Colville ever the Colville-Walla Walla trail.
Walla Walla-Colville Trail
THE old Walla Walla-Colville road is one of the most historic trails in the state of Washington and did more to develop the Inland Empire than any other road. It was originally an Indian trail. It was used by David Thompson, the first white man in this district. Later it was adapted by the pioneer as a wagon road and became the common road between the Snake river and Colville. Most of it was lost to view long ago, having been plowed up, but where it crossed basalt rock, the wheel ruts can be plainly seen.
W. D. Vincent, the historian responsible for moving the Camp Washington monument, was also responsible for the six-foot rough- hewn granite shaft marking the point where the Walla Walla-Colville road crosses the Sunset highway.
It was unveiled at a ceremony attended by 60 persons on June 12, 1929. George W. Fuller, secretary of Eastern Washington Historical society, presided.
Fort Colville
HERE are two monuments with identical inscriptions, marking old Fort Colville. One built of two rough-hewn granite stones is located on Marcus flats.
The other composed of two precisely cut oblong blocks of granite is located on the site of old St. Paul’s mission. The wooded area surrounding the mission and monument encircled by a bend of the Columbia was given in 1951 to the state of Washington for a state park by the Spokane Catholic diocese.
These two monuments mark the last historical stopping place of Governor Stevens and his party en route to Fort Walla Walla. His destination before taking boat for Fort Vancouver. Leaving his party there, the governor rode horseback to Olympia, the territorial capital chosen before leaving St. Paul. He arrived November 25, 1853.
STEPTOE MONUMENT
ON MAY 7, 1858, Col. E. J. Steptoe marched north toward the Spokane country with a band of 158 men from his post at Fort Walla Walla. In the Palouse hills he found his band surrounded by hostile Indians and suffered defeat.
A stately 18-foot monument marks the "tragic Steptoe affair." The monolith was erected by Esther Reed chapter of Spokane, Daughters of the American Revolution, at a cost of $1500.
It was dedicated June 14. 1914, with impressive ceremonies which lasted all day. The arrival of three special trains over the Inland Railway, bringing 600 soldiers from Fort Wright, the Fort Lawton regimental band, patriotic groups and distinguished citizens from Spokane, marked the beginning of the ceremonies.
The rites included three men who 56 years before marched up the valley with Colonel Steptoe. They were Thomas J. Beal, Sgt. Michael J. Kinney and J. J. Rohn, the only living survivors cf the expedition. During the program, each gave personal reminiscences of the encounter.
SPOKANE GARRY
THE dedications of a monument and a marker, erected by the Daughters of American Revolution of Spokane, recognizing Chief Spokane Garry’s services to his white contemporaries, belongs in this compilation. Spokane Garry died January 12, 1892, in a poor wigwam, a mile and a half from a monument erected to his memory near the entrance to Greenwood cemetery. His grave, for years, was marked by a wooden head-piece, put up by W. D. Vincent, with an inscription by Garrett Hunt. Two lots near the entrance of Greenwood cemetery were purchased by Spokane Garry chapter, DAR, to which his remains were transferred. His monument was dedicated June 3, 1925.
Spokane Garry Marker
ON JUNE 14, 1955, 30 years after the dedication of the monument in Greenwood cemetery, the Spokane Garry chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, erected a rustic marker on the city of Spokane’s first school, which was built and taught by Chief Spokane Garry. This site had been purchased and held for 20 years by Miss Mattie Metherille, a member of the chapter.
The location of the school was authentically designated at Euclid and Oak by E. T. Becher, Rogers high school.
WRIGHT MARKERS
Battle of Four Lakes
MONUMENT marking the first battle of the Wright campaign is on the Cheney highway at its intersection with the Medical Lake road at the Four Lakes community. It is an ornate granite shaft, decorated with carvings of bows, arrows, tomahawks and rifles.
The monument was erected under the auspices of the Spokane County Pioneer society with the cooperation of Four Lakes Grange, the Medical Lake Commercial club and the State Custodial school.
Battle of the Plains AFTER the Battle of Four Lakes, Colonel Wright and his forces rested again for four days at Bassett Springs, in a wheat field south of Four Lakes. He engaged the Indians a second time on the plains 14 miles west of Spokane, between the present Fort Wright and the Sunset highway.
A monument marking this battle engagement is located at the junction of the Sunset highway and the Great Northern railroad crossing. The land was secured and funds raised for the marker by the Washington State Historical society and other patriotic organizations.
The unveiling took place as a part of the second national Indian congress, on July 23, 1926.
Fort Wright Monument
ON JUNE 3, 1925, the same day that Spokane Garry chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, dedicated a monument in Greenwood cemetery to Spokane Garry, another monument was dedicated on the parade grounds of Fort Wright by the Esther Reed chapter, DAR.
The second monument designated the location of the camp of Colonel Wright to which he called the allied Indians for sur- render and treaties of lasting peace with the whites.
Horse Slaughter
After receiving the surrender of the allied Indians and accepting their treaties, word was brought to Colonel Wright's camp that a herd of Indian ponies was moving toward Liberty lake. Fearing some new trick of the Indians and knowing that an Indian is helpless without his pony, Colonel Wright had the ponies captured and corralled at a point near Spokane Bridge. As a strategic move of warfare, most of the 800 ponies were killed.
On October 6, 1926, a crowd of 200 witnessed the dedication of two granite monuments. The one marking the spot of the horse slaughter, the other locating the first post office in Spokane county. Both monuments are a short distance west of Spokane Bridge.
The Indian pony shaft perpetuating the victory of Colonel Wright over the Indians in 1858 was erected by the Spokane County Pioneers society, assisted by Sons and Daughters of the Pioneers and loyal citizens.
Waverly Monument
SEVERAL days after the horse slaughter, Colonel Wright held conference with Coeur d'Alene Indians in the log residence of the “Black Robes” (the original Sacred Heart mis- sion) and forced them to agree to forever cease hostilities against the whites. He also recovered much stolen property. Father Joset acted as peacemaker and interpreter.
From the Coeur d'Alene mission, Colonel Wright moved to a spot on the road between Waverly and Fairfield. A monument marking this camp is designated as the ‘“Kentuck Trail Ford” monument, as Waverly Road monument, or as Hangman Creek monument, was dedicated September 29, 1935. The granite shaft seven feet high and four feet wide stands on a concrete base.
It was erected and dedicated by the Spokane County Pioneer association, Waverly Service legion, Fairfield and Plaza Granges
MULLAN ROAD MONUMENTS
CAPTAIN John Mullan Started construction of the Mullan military road with about 100 men on July 1, 1859, at Fort Walla Walla. The road was completed at Fort Benton, Mont., during the summer of 1861-62.
The historical value of the Mullan road has been attested by the monuments erected on it in three states. In Montana, four have been erected between Fort Benton and the summit of the Bitterroot mountains. In Idaho, three monuments mark the original road across the pass at Mullan, Wallace and Kellogg. Others in Idaho are at St. Maries, Post Falls and Fourth of July canyon. There are nine in Washington, seven of them in Spokane county.
A monument marking the beginning of the Mullan road is located at the right side of the entry to the state penitentiary grounds at Walla Walla.
The marker was dedicated June 5, 1923. Governor F. Hart was the principal speaker.
Monument at Lamont
A MULLAN road monument at Lamont was dedicated December 5, 1925. It was erected by the Lamont community under the auspices of the ladies’ aid of the Presbyterian church. Permission for its location directly on the old Mullan read was granted by County Commissioner W. McCoy.
Monument Near Amber
IN 1926, one year after the dedication of the Mullan road monument on the Cheney-Spangle road, a third marker, in sequence of location from Walla Walla, was erected on the highway about 12 miles south of Sprague, where the noted road crosses the Rudolph Miller ranch. Portions of it are still used at harvest time for hauling grain. This stretch of it winds through level country, not so direct, but easier for heavily leaded wagons to travel.
On Cheney-Spangle Road
THE fourth Mullan read monument in this series is located about eight miles south of Cheney, on the read to Spangle. It is a solid pyramid of native rock with cement base. Directly facing the road is the wedge-shaped tablet of gray marble, placed by the Washington State Historical society.
The dedication took place on November 1, 1925. Among the 150 attending from Cheney, Spangle and the surrounding country were a large number of old settlers.
On Highway 195
ON HIGHWAY 195, often called the Inland Empire highway, about eight miles south of Spokane, is the fifth Mullan road monument in sequence of location from Walla Walla. It was dedicated June 8, 1941. ---
Moran Monument
THE first monument in this series erected in the Inland Empire by the Washington State Historical society was the Camp Washington monument in 1908. It is mentioned in the Governor Stevens itinerary.
The second and third by the Washington State Historical society are Mullan Road monuments, one on the Palouse highway southeast of Spokane, opposite the Grange hall at Moran, dedicated on Memorial day, 1922.
Glenrose Monument
THE Glenrose Mullan road monument was an all-community project promoted by the Glenrose Woman’s club.
At the time the monument was built at least half a mile of the original road was still distinguishable in the precinct.
John Williamson and Bert Williamson, whose father, R. G, Williamson, settled in the community in 1878, and Fred Butler, Spokane city engineer, whose father arrived in 1876, used the road as a convenient highway in their younger days, and authentically identified the portions of the road still visible.
During a year the men of the community gathered native lava rock and built an eight-by-six- foot pyramid on the right of way where the Mullan road crossed Twenty-ninth at Cherry lane. The monument was dedicated September 28, 1936.
On Hartson Avenue
THE Mullan road monument on Hartson near the tuberculosis hospital, is a granite slab. The dedication took place November 25, 1934.
Fourth of July Canyon
THE Mullan road monument at Dishman is the ninth and last in order of location in Washington. There are six in Idaho and four in Montana, gifts of William Clark Jr. of Butte, Mont.
Each monument rests on a cement base, surmounted by a granite block 14 feet high on which is carved a bar-relief of Captain Mullan.
The Mullan monument in Fourth of July canyon, 20 miles from Coeur d’Alene and 35 miles from Wallace, was first erected on Sherman street in Coeur d’Alene, a part of the old trail. It was later moved to Fourth of July canyon, where it and Mullan park were dedicated September 17, 1921.
IT SEEMS fitting to close this review of the dedications of the Mullan monuments in the Inland Empire with a paraphrase of Mrs. Silas Cook's dedication of the Hangman Creek monument.
“This compilation is dedicated to the people of the Inland Empire, to the commonwealth of Washington, to Spokane county, and to the generations that follow; to call attention to the spirit of the pioneers, the traditions of our country, and to encourage patriotism.”
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Spokane House marker. Photos by C. J. Berkey.
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Spokane Garry school marker on North Side.
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The Camp Washington marker, one of first.
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The handsome shaft at Rosalia, for Steptoe.
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Here stood Fort Colville, reads this fine marker.
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One of Idaho’s numerous similar Mullan monuments.
[photo] A monument along the old Colville-Walla Walla road.
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This one is the Wright marker, Hangman creek.
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The Battle of Four Lakes marker, Wright campaign.
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Mullan monument along Inland Empire highway.
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Mullan monument on the Cheney-Spangle highway.
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Where Mullan road crossed near present-day Dishman.
